A Swiss Adventure
Touring Switzerland
Bern
After our incredible stay in Zermatt, Julia and I boarded a train
bound for Bern. The train journey, as always in Switzerland, was smooth and
picturesque. Rolling hills, small villages, and expansive green meadows passed
by our windows as we made our way toward the capital city. We were both eager
to explore Bern, a city known not only for its historical significance but also
for its connection to one of the greatest minds in history: Albert Einstein.
Arriving in Bern felt different from the mountain villages we had
been visiting. It was a city, no doubt, but there was something wonderfully
calm and unhurried about it. The old town of Bern, with its UNESCO World
Heritage status, is packed with medieval buildings, cobblestone streets, and
covered arcades that stretch out along the streets like a continuous canopy.
Despite being the capital – well kind of –, Bern has a village-like charm that
immediately resonated with us.
Officially designated as the "federal city," Bern was
chosen as a compromise in 1848 to avoid centralizing too much power in one
region, reflecting Switzerland’s commitment to decentralization. Unlike other
capitals, Bern is not the largest or most economically powerful city in the
country, with Zurich and Geneva holding much of the financial and diplomatic
influence. So, Bern is sort of the capital of Switzerland.
We had two days in this lovely city, and we were determined to make
the most of it. Our first stop was the Federal Palace (Bundeshaus), where
Switzerland's parliament meets. The building itself is an architectural marvel,
with its neo-Renaissance design and imposing façade.
From there, we strolled through Bern’s old town, wandering along the
narrow streets, stopping in quaint shops, and admiring the town’s many
fountains—each with its own story. It was easy to lose ourselves in the beauty
of the city, and soon we found ourselves standing in front of one of Bern’s
most famous landmarks, the Berner Münster. This towering cathedral, with its
intricate Gothic architecture, was a sight to behold.
One of the highlights of our time in Bern was undoubtedly our visit
to the Einstein House. Located in the Kramgasse, this modest apartment was
where Einstein lived with his first wife, Mileva, and their son, Hans Albert,
from 1903 to 1905. It was during these years that Einstein worked at the Swiss
Patent Office, a job that gave him the time and space to work on his own
scientific ideas. This period in Bern is known as Einstein's “miracle year”
(annus mirabilis), during which he published four groundbreaking papers that
would forever change the world of physics.
Walking through the small apartment, it was amazing to think that it
was here, in such simple surroundings, that Einstein developed his special
theory of relativity. The house has been preserved to give visitors a sense of
what life was like for the young physicist at that time. The exhibits tell the
story of Einstein’s life, his time in Bern, and how his ideas evolved. One room
is filled with photographs, letters, and other personal artifacts that help
paint a picture of his life as both a scientist and a man.
What we found particularly interesting was Einstein’s journey with citizenship.
Born in the German Empire, Einstein gave up his German citizenship in 1896 and
was stateless for a few years before becoming a Swiss citizen in 1901. His
decision to move to Switzerland was partly motivated by his desire to escape
the rigid educational system in Germany, but also because Switzerland, with its
progressive attitude toward science and intellectual freedom, seemed like the
perfect place for him to grow and thrive. Bern, in particular, became a place
of refuge and creativity for Einstein during his early years, and it’s clear
that the city had a lasting impact on him. Despite his later fame and travels
around the world, he always maintained his Swiss citizenship.
The next day, we visited the Bern Historical Museum (Bernisches
Historisches Museum), which hosts the famous Einstein Museum exhibition. This
extensive collection dives even deeper into Einstein's life and work, giving a
detailed account of his scientific discoveries and their impact on the world.
The museum does an incredible job of making complex scientific ideas accessible
to the general public, using interactive displays, original manuscripts, and
historical artifacts. We spent hours exploring the exhibits, immersing
ourselves in Einstein’s life and work, from his humble beginnings in Bern to
his later years as one of the most renowned figures in the world.
While living in Bern, Albert Einstein invented a small device called
the Einstein refrigerator in collaboration with his former student Leo Szilard
in 1926. Yes, he was an inventor too – who new. This refrigerator was an
absorption refrigerator that operated without any moving parts and used only
heat as an energy source. The design was meant to be safer and more reliable
than the traditional refrigerators of the time, which used toxic gases like
ammonia, methyl chloride, and sulfur dioxide as refrigerants. Although it never
became commercially successful, the Einstein refrigerator demonstrated
Einstein’s innovative approach to problem-solving, extending beyond his
contributions to theoretical physics.
The exhibition also touched on the more personal aspects of
Einstein’s life—his complex relationships, his political views, and the
challenges he faced as both a scientist and a public figure. One of the most
moving parts of the exhibition was learning about how Einstein, a pacifist,
spoke out against war and fascism, particularly during the rise of the Nazi
regime in Germany, which led to his decision to leave Europe for the United
States. Despite all the upheaval in his later life, Einstein’s connection to
Switzerland remained strong, and it was clear that Bern had a special place in
his heart.
After two days of exploring Bern’s history and Einstein’s legacy, we
were equally impressed by the city itself. Though it is the political center of
Switzerland, Bern retains a charming and relaxed atmosphere, with its
well-preserved medieval architecture and its welcoming, easygoing vibe. One of
the things we appreciated most was how easy it was to find vegan food. We had
expected Bern to be a bit more traditional, but we were pleasantly surprised by
the number of restaurants offering plant-based options. From vegan burgers to
creative salads and hearty vegetable stews, we never had trouble finding
delicious meals.
As we prepared to leave Bern, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of
admiration for the city and its deep connection to Einstein. Bern is more than
just a political and historical hub—it’s a place where ideas were born, where
one of the greatest minds of our time found inspiration and refuge. It’s a city
that, while small in size, is grand in its significance. And for us, it will
always hold a special place in our hearts, not just for its beauty and history,
but for the quiet sense of inspiration it left with us.
Zurich
After two lovely days in Bern, it was time to make our way back to
Zurich. The train ride was comfortable, passing through picturesque Swiss
countryside, each bend revealing new vistas of rolling hills and the occasional
silhouette of distant mountains. Julia and I had grown fond of the easy travel
in Switzerland, the efficiency of the trains, and how they seemed to glide from
city to city without ever a hitch. We reminisced about our time in Bern—how the
quaint charm of the city had captured our hearts.
Arriving in Zurich, the familiar vibrancy of the city greeted us.
Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland, but what struck us wasn’t its size
but the beauty and diversity in each part of it. From the moment we walked out
of the train station, the flow of the Limmat River caught our attention, its
waters cutting a clean line through the city, bringing a sense of calm amidst
the bustling streets. We decided to start our stay with a stroll along the
river, where the medieval architecture of the city blended effortlessly with
modern buildings. It was impossible not to feel the weight of history in
Zurich. The city’s rich past seemed to flow through the streets, hidden in the
walls of ancient structures and whispered by the winds as they swept off the
lake.
Zurich’s lakefront is mesmerizing, a tranquil body of water with
sailboats drifting lazily across its surface. As we walked along the promenade,
we took in the sight of locals enjoying the sunny afternoon, some on bicycles,
others walking dogs, all soaking in the serenity of the lakeside. The view of
the distant Alps added to the splendor, though they were now a backdrop to the
urban vibrancy we were immersed in. Afterward, we meandered through the narrow,
winding streets of Zurich’s Altstadt (Old Town), with its cobblestone paths and
medieval buildings, giving the feeling that we’d stepped back in time.
One of the highlights of our time in Zurich, however, was our visit
to the Kunsthaus Zürich, the city's famed art museum. We were eager to
experience it. From the moment we stepped into the museum, it became clear that
this was more than just an art collection—it was a deep and complex reflection
of history, particularly that of the 20th century. Julia and I had read about
the museum’s connection to the controversial era of Nazi Germany, a chapter in
European history that the art world has had to confront time and again.
The museum’s collection is vast, covering centuries of artistic
achievement, but it was the modern European art section that drew us in the
most. We moved through rooms filled with works by Giacometti, Chagall, Munch,
and Picasso, their bold colors and striking forms speaking volumes about the
tumultuous periods in which they were created. Each painting seemed to carry
the weight of the artist's personal history, but also a collective history—one
marked by war, displacement, and loss.
One particular exhibit caught our attention, a section dedicated to
art that had been looted or confiscated by the Nazis during World War II. This
part of the museum told a darker story, one where art and politics collided in
ways that forever altered the lives of artists, collectors, and entire
families. During the Nazi regime, many Jewish collectors and artists had their
works stolen or forcibly sold under duress. The Nazis labeled much of the
avant-garde work of the time as “degenerate art,” seeking to erase what they
saw as subversive or nonconformist ideas from the cultural landscape of Europe.
Many of the pieces we were admiring in the museum had once belonged to Jewish
families, their fates tragically intertwined with the horrors of the Holocaust.
Kunsthaus Zürich, like many other major European museums, had to
confront its own involvement in the handling of looted art. While the museum is
not directly responsible for the thefts, some of the works in its collection
had questionable origins. A part of the museum’s history involves a man named
Emil Georg Bührle, a wealthy industrialist and art collector who amassed an
extraordinary collection during and after the war, some of which was later
found to have come from dubious sources. The museum houses many of Bührle’s
acquisitions, and there has been ongoing debate about the provenance of some of
these pieces.
As we stood in front of one of Bührle’s acquisitions, a painting by
Van Gogh, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of unease. It was beautiful, of
course, but knowing the potential history behind it added a layer of complexity
to our experience. We discussed how museums today are taking steps to research
the provenance of their collections and return stolen art to the rightful
owners, but it is a long and often difficult process. Julia and I felt
conflicted, torn between admiration for the art and sorrow for the families who
had suffered so much loss.
Despite the difficult history, the Kunsthaus Zürich is also a place
of healing and reconciliation. In recent years, the museum has made a concerted
effort to shine a light on its more controversial pieces, openly discussing the
Bührle collection and the steps being taken to address historical wrongs. The
exhibit we were walking through was a part of that effort, with detailed
descriptions accompanying each piece, explaining its provenance, the family's
history, and the ongoing efforts to restore justice where possible. It was
humbling to witness.
Leaving the museum, we felt a sense of gratitude for the experience,
even if it left us with more questions than answers. Art, as we had been
reminded, is not only a reflection of beauty but also of human history—the good
and the bad, the triumphs and the tragedies. Zurich’s art museum embodied that
truth, standing at the crossroads of culture and history, constantly reminding
visitors of the complexities of the past.
For the remainder of our stay, we dined at some of Zurich’s
wonderful vegan restaurants, including a cozy spot near the river that served
plant-based versions of traditional Swiss dishes. We loved exploring the
culinary creativity of the city, discovering just how much Zurich had to offer
beyond its stunning views and rich history. As we prepared to leave the city
and conclude our Swiss adventure, Zurich had left an indelible mark on us—a
place where the past and the present coexist in harmony, where every corner
held a story, and where art, food, and nature came together to form a truly
unforgettable experience.