Exploring Antarctica
Aitcho, Greenwich, and the South Shetland Islands
Our first landing in the breathtaking Antarctic region was on
Barrientos Island, part of the Aitcho group of islands. These islands themselves belong to the South Shetland Islands, located approximately 80 miles offshore from the Antarctic Peninsula. The
M/V Ushuaia anchored a short distance from the landing site. Despite the only way to reach the shore being a descent down a steep gangplank hanging from the ship's side, everyone eagerly anticipated setting foot on solid ground.
The distant lifeline
Disembarking all the adventurers required several trips using three Zodiac boats. These small rubber vessels, filled with eager eco-tourists, shuttled back and forth from the black pebble beach, creating a stark contrast with the local penguins who continued their activities seemingly unaware of our presence. The ship appeared so distant from the snow-covered shoreline, a detachment that underscored our complete reliance on it.
The rocky beach met a steep, snowy embankment, making the climb in rubber boots quite challenging. Penguins were everywhere - resting on the snow, waddling along the beach, both alone and in large groups. It was around this time that their not-so-pleasant secret was revealed: they have a truly strong odor, especially when gathered en masse in their rookeries. It's an awful, hold-your-breath, gagging smell. How can such adorable creatures produce such a pungent aroma?
First landing
Crossing the narrow atoll didn't take long. Several seals were lounging on the beach on the other side of the island. However, time seemed to fly by, and soon it was time to return to the ship. It was hard to leave this snowy wonderland, but our itinerary required us to move on to the next destination.
Yankee Harbor on Greenwich Island, our next landing site, is a truly marvelous place. This small island's terrain is mostly about 4 to 6 feet above sea level, but its interior boasts several peaks ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 feet. The island was dotted with both penguins and seals. Exploring its full length in rubber boots took some time, especially as it was snowing heavily. It turned out to be a three-mile hike through often very deep snow. Icebergs, some displaying the most exquisite shades of icy blue, surrounded the island.
While sailing towards our next destination, a pod of orca whales provided a memorable escort. Later, after a delightful meal, a breathtaking sunset illuminated the southern icebergs.
The endless Antarctic sunset
At this time of year, these stunning sunsets begin around 10:00 PM and last until after 12:00 AM! As we settled into our bunks, the Captain slowed the ship and carefully navigated through an increasingly dense ice sheet. Lying in bed, listening to massive slabs of ice bump and scrape against the porthole, was quite unnerving. This marked our first encounter with the Antarctic pack ice, and it certainly wouldn't be the last.
Join me in the next part of this journey as our Antarctic adventure continues.
Exploring Antarctica - danger at every turn!
More information:
Barrientos Island
M/V Ushuaia
Yankee Harbor