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Sharm El Sheikh, Sinai Peninsula

SCUBA Diving

Tuesday, January 8, 2008

As we flew from Luxor to Cairo and on to Sharm El Sheikh yesterday, it was a beautifully clear day, so we were able to see the Suez Canal, Sinai sand deserts, and rugged mountains. What a very strange and alien place the Sinai is.

The Sinai Great Sand Deserts.

The first analogy that comes to my mind is the recent photos seen from the surface of Mars.

From Julia: Now we are eating humble pie (and a big lunch of burger and fries). We just called my mum in London to say hello, only to find out that there's been an outbreak of a vomiting bug in the UK. It sounds like the exact symptoms and duration of the bug we just had. Our trip was nearly all English travelers, so probably someone brought the plague on board and infected us all, and it wasn't the Egyptian kitchen hygiene after all. Oh dear.

At the Hyatt Regency Sharm El Sheikh.

Today we had a wonderful day of leisurely recovery surrounded by heavenly luxury. Our room overlooks the Red Sea. The hotel has lots of restaurants with fresh fruit—great for travelers close to scurvy as we are.

Julia snorkeling on the hotel reef.

Most of the tourists here are from Russia; some of the men look like Russian Tony Sopranos with glamorous girlfriends draped on their arms. We booked dives for the next couple of days when I will complete SCUBA certification. We also went snorkeling in the coral reef and saw lots of brightly colored fish. We feel very much recovered as evidenced by eating a huge burger with a glass of chardonnay.

The hotel is positioned on one of the better parts of the reef, so it was wonderful snorkeling from the beach.

There were many military boats anchored off the shore. We heard that George W. might be staying at or visiting the hotel soon.

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

My diving instructor Georgia and I looking happy.

We set off on our SCUBA diving adventures today. Julia started her first set of certification dives with her instructor, a local Egyptian whom she liked very much. He displayed much patience and a calming approach to training. I decided to do a refresher dive since I hadn't dived in over three years. My dive instructor, Georgia, took me through some review in the swimming pool, and then we went for a quick dive on the reef in front of the hotel.

From Julia: My instructor is called Shokry, which means "thankful" in Arabic. I was thankful for his help, as I had a couple of episodes of panic and anxiety. He was very calm and helped me to relax and not worry so I could continue.

Julia completed her two certification dives today and was very brave, as she had some challenges but pushed on with the training. She only needs to complete two dives in open water from a dive boat, which we have scheduled for tomorrow. You go, girl!

Sights we saw during our diving today.

Thursday, January 10, 2008

The elated new SCUBA diver!

Julia completed her two remaining open-water certification dives today and is now a qualified open-water SCUBA diver! Bravo, Julia!

Friday, January 11, 2008

From Julia: Today has been a "veg out" day of hanging out by the pool and eating yummy lunch. I can't tell you how wonderfully relaxing it is here. Nothing more to say!

The hotel reef.

I spent the morning on the phone with Wells Fargo bank pleading with them to stop turning off my online access to my bank account. This has been a constant issue for both Julia and me since we first tried to access our accounts in Egypt. To make matters worse, the banker told me this morning that they had mistakenly deactivated my access. The lesson here is to call your bank, especially if it's Wells Fargo, before you travel overseas and let them know. What a waste of good beach time.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

We rose early and caught the tour bus to Saint Catherine's Monastery this morning. The bus traveled through the vast Sinai deserts and rocky, craggy mountains. Truly, there is very little life in these lands, at least when viewed from a bus on the road. Last year, it rained only once in Egypt, less than an inch. Given this, it's easy to understand why this place is so dry and desolate.

The Sinai countryside from our bus.

The bus stopped at a gas station and then at the side of the road to view an oasis. Finally, we parked at Saint Catherine's Monastery. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable (as have all of our guides in Egypt) and spoke multiple languages. He explained the amazing history of Saint Catherine's Monastery, which has been continuously operating since 400 BC.

The skull room, where they place the bones of their dead monks.

From Julia: In the skull room, there was also the fully robed skeleton of the monk who went up a nearby mountain and found the bones of St. Catherine, which had been dropped there by angels after she was killed by the Romans, or so the story goes. St. Catherine's forearm and head are still in the basilica, where believers come to kiss them and donate rings and jewels to the monastery. The rest of her bones were generously distributed to churches in Italy and France to serve as relics.

We encountered a familiar issue once again on our tour in Egypt. After leaving the monastery, we stopped for lunch, and then we were dropped off at a "government-controlled" jewelry store in Dahab. There, the owner tried every trick in the book to sell something to everyone. This does seem to be a recurring theme with tours in Egypt.

The Burning Bush within Saint Catherine's Monastery—yes, the one from the Old Testament.

From Julia: It was wonderful to think of all the history of the monastery and the thousands of monks and pilgrims who've visited St. Catherine's since Roman times. We heard that a historian went there in Victorian times and was studying the ancient Bible the monks had in the library, which is second only to the Vatican for ancient texts. Anyway, this historian stole the Bible and gave it to Alexander II of Russia. Then when the Revolution came, it was sold to the British Museum, where it resides to this day. If you can't get to Egypt, I think the British Museum has enough Egyptian treasures to give you a good idea of the place!

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Here is a typical view of SCUBA diving at Sharm.

We headed out on a beautiful day to the Ras Mohammed Marine Reserve to make our last SCUBA dive in Sharm. This was one of the main reasons I came to Egypt. I have met several SCUBA divers over the years who assured me that the Ras Mohammed Marine Reserve was as good as the Australian Great Barrier Reef for diving. Well, Ras Mohammed Marine Reserve is certainly a great place to dive, but it doesn't come close to the Australian Great Barrier Reef for types of corals, fish, and other animals. Sorry, but Australia is much better.

Julia dived with me for the first time since her certification and had a good dive, though she still felt a bit uneasy underwater. I believe in time she will get more comfortable with it all. Next stop tomorrow is back to jolly old England and Canterbury. We have until the end of February before we return to warm weather.

We are looking forward to seeing everyone in the UK again and facing the challenge of Offa's Dyke later this month.

Hotel Reef Video

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