A Swiss Adventure
Touring and hiking
Zermatt
After a few incredible days exploring Lauterbrunnen and the Jungfrau
region, Julia and I packed up our bags for the next leg of our Swiss adventure:
Zermatt. Our time in Lauterbrunnen had been everything we imagined:
breathtaking hikes, mountain vistas, and even a close encounter with a curious
mountain fox. But as always, when one chapter closes, another begins, and
Zermatt had been on our list for a long time.
The journey from Lauterbrunnen to Zermatt was yet another reminder
of why Swiss trains are so revered. It’s not just the efficiency, though that
certainly is a welcome change from many other places; it’s the experience
itself. The trains glided through alpine landscapes as though they were part of
the scenery, revealing jaw-dropping views around every bend. Even though I’ve
seen my fair share of mountains, there’s something about Switzerland’s peaks
that never fails to amaze me. On this trip, the landscape shifted from the deep
valleys and waterfalls of the Jungfrau region to the more rugged, towering
peaks that signaled our approach to Zermatt.
We arrived in Zermatt on a wet, cloudy afternoon. The weather had
closed in, giving the entire place a soft, misty atmosphere that felt fitting
for a mountain village at the foot of the mighty Matterhorn. While the clouds
obscured much of the surrounding mountains, it added a cozy, intimate vibe to
the town, as if Zermatt was whispering to us to take things slowly.
One of the first things we noticed, and which struck us as quite
unusual, was the absence of cars in the town. Zermatt has a strict no-car
policy, which we both loved immediately. The silence on the streets was
refreshing, broken only by the occasional electric taxi humming along or the
sound of footsteps on wet cobblestones. It felt like a step back in time, or at
least a step toward a more sustainable future. You could walk around without
the usual city noise, and it created a certain peace that added to the town's
charm.
What was ahead of us
We took one of these electric taxis to our hotel, which turned out
to be just as lovely as the rest of Zermatt. The hotel had a warm, welcoming
atmosphere with wooden beams and large windows that would, on a clearer day,
have given us perfect views of the Matterhorn. The room was cozy, and after a
morning of travel, we were more than ready to unwind. Luckily, the hotel had a
spa, and we wasted no time in taking full advantage of it.
Zermatt itself is a delightful village. Even though the clouds hung
low, masking the peaks that usually dominate the skyline, the charm of the town
still shone through. The narrow streets, lined with Swiss chalets, cafes, and
boutique shops, made for a lovely place to wander aimlessly. We spent the
afternoon walking the quiet streets, breathing in the fresh alpine air, and
marveling at how even in the rain, Zermatt maintained its beauty.
Our wandering eventually led us to the search for dinner. After a
few days of hearty mountain food, we both craved something a little lighter,
and to our surprise, we found a lovely restaurant that offered vegan dishes. In
a town known for its cheese-heavy, meat-centric alpine cuisine, this was an
unexpected and welcome discovery. The restaurant was cozy, with a modern touch,
and the food was fantastic.
By the time we left the restaurant, the rain had slowed to a
drizzle, and the streets of Zermatt were quiet and still. We walked back to the
hotel, the cool air on our faces and the sound of rain softly tapping on the
rooftops.
Tomorrow, we would explore more of what Zermatt had to offer, and
hopefully, we’d get a clearer view of the iconic mountain. But for now, we were
more than happy to enjoy the peacefulness of the evening, the warmth of the
hotel, and the knowledge that we were in one of the most beautiful places in
the world.
Matterhorn
The next morning, we woke up to something truly magical: blue skies
stretching across Zermatt, and there it was—the Matterhorn, looming large,
standing proud against the sky, dominating every view. After the previous day’s
mist and rain, waking to clear skies felt like a gift, as if the mountain had
chosen this day to reveal itself in all its glory. No matter where we turned,
the jagged peak of the Matterhorn followed us, capturing our attention and
pulling us closer.
The excitement of the day buzzed between us as we grabbed a quick
breakfast, fueling up for what we knew would be a strenuous adventure. Today
was the day we would get closer to the legendary mountain, hiking a trail that
led up to the basecamp hut (Hörnli Hut) used by climbers preparing to summit
the Matterhorn itself. We were not planning on attempting the summit, but the
hike to basecamp was adventure enough for us, especially knowing the altitude
and conditions that awaited us.
Zermatt, as usual, was bustling but peaceful. We walked through the
town, the Matterhorn ever-present above us, and made our way to the gondola
station. Gondolas are one of the great conveniences of the Alps, and this one
whisked us effortlessly up the mountainside, leaving the town below, getting us
closer to the trailhead. As we ascended, the landscape changed from rolling
green meadows dotted with chalets to the more rugged, rocky terrain of high
alpine altitudes.
At the top of the gondola, we stepped out and felt the crispness of
the mountain air, so much cooler at altitude, but invigorating. The trail
before us snaked its way upward, with the Matterhorn always looming ahead, its
sharp, triangular face cutting through the blue sky. The day was perfect for
hiking—clear skies, cool temperatures, and endless views.
We steeled ourselves for what would be a challenging hike. The trail
was steep, with a total elevation gain of about 3000 feet, and we were already
starting at an altitude of roughly 8000 feet. At that elevation, every step
feels a little harder, the air thinner, but the excitement and the beauty of
the surroundings kept us going. We started at a steady pace, knowing it would
be a long climb but savoring each moment.
The vistas along the trail were nothing short of breathtaking. As we
climbed higher, the views back toward Zermatt and the surrounding valleys
opened up in ways we hadn’t expected. The village looked tiny and far away,
nestled between towering mountains, and the sky stretched endlessly above us.
To our left and right, sharp peaks and glaciers created a scene so otherworldly
that at times it felt like we were walking through a postcard or a dream. Every
now and then, we would stop to take it all in—to rest, to breathe, and to
appreciate the vastness of the landscape around us.
But the trail was no easy stroll. The incline was constant, and the
higher we went, the more we could feel the altitude taking its toll. There were
sections of the trail where patches of ice still clung stubbornly to the rocky
path, adding an extra layer of challenge to the hike. At times, we had to tread
carefully, choosing our steps with caution and gripping the rocks as we made
our way upward. But despite the steepness and the icy patches, Julia pushed on
with determination. We both did. There’s something about the allure of a
mountain like the Matterhorn that pulls you upward, even when your legs start
to tire or your breath becomes a little shallower.
The higher we climbed, the more expansive the views became, and each
new vista was somehow more spectacular than the last. The sharp, craggy peaks,
the glaciers gleaming in the sunlight, the deep valleys far below—it was a
landscape that felt humbling in its vastness and beauty.
Though we pushed ourselves, we were always mindful of the time. The
last gondola back down to Zermatt had a fixed schedule, and we didn’t want to
miss it, as hiking back down in the gathering cold and darkness wasn’t an
option we wanted to entertain. We made it just short of the basecamp hut when
we realized that we would have to turn back. We had hoped to make it all the
way, but the mountain had dictated otherwise. At that moment, standing just shy
of our goal, it was hard to feel disappointed. The journey had been incredible,
and the experience of being on that trail, with the Matterhorn towering above
us, was enough.
On our way back down, the views seemed just as awe-inspiring as they
had on the ascent. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows over the mountains,
and as we retraced our steps, we could appreciate all over again the grandeur
of the Swiss Alps. Descending was easier on the lungs but harder on the knees,
and we were grateful when we finally arrived back at the gondola station.
As we descended back into the village, the Matterhorn stood tall
behind us, bathed in the soft light of the setting sun. We were tired but
exhilarated, knowing that we had just experienced something truly special—a
hike that pushed us physically but rewarded us with some of the most
spectacular mountain views we had ever seen. The trail had been challenging,
the altitude had been punishing at times, but every step had been worth it.
Back in Zermatt, we decided to celebrate the day in style, treating
ourselves to a posh restaurant for a luxurious 8-course vegan meal. Each dish
was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavors that
surprised and delighted us. From delicate starters to rich, satisfying mains,
the meal felt like a reward for the effort we had put into our hike. The
atmosphere was elegant, with soft lighting and an attentive staff that made the
experience all the more special. Our legs were sore, and we knew we’d be
feeling the effects of the hike for days to come, but none of that mattered as
we savored each course. The memory of that day—the sight of the Matterhorn from
so many angles, the thrill of the climb—blended seamlessly with the indulgence
of the meal. It was a day, and an evening, that would stay with us long after
the soreness had faded.
Sunnegga to Zermatt
The day after our exhilarating adventure up the Matterhorn, we
decided to take things a bit easier but still wanted to make the most of the
stunning scenery around Zermatt. Our legs were still recovering from the steep
ascent and altitude of the previous day's hike, but the allure of the Swiss Alps
was too strong to resist. So, we chose a hike that would take us through a
different side of Zermatt—the forests below the tree line—on a trail from
Sunnegga back down to the village.
The morning began like so many others in Zermatt, with a quick
glance out the window to check the weather. The skies were partly cloudy, with
the sun breaking through in patches, casting a warm glow over the mountains. It
was perfect hiking weather, especially for a trail that promised to be less
strenuous than the previous day’s trek.
We headed out after breakfast, walking through the now-familiar
streets of Zermatt to the gondola station. The Sunnegga gondola is another
marvel of Swiss engineering, whisking passengers from the town up to the higher
slopes of the mountain in a matter of minutes. The ride itself was smooth and
quiet, offering us more fantastic views of the surrounding peaks. Though not as
towering or dramatic as the Matterhorn, the mountains around Sunnegga had a
gentler beauty, with slopes covered in forests and meadows that stretched out
below us.
At the top, we stepped out into the fresh mountain air and took a
moment to take in the panoramic view. The Matterhorn was still visible, albeit
from a different angle, and the surrounding peaks, though less imposing, were
no less beautiful. Sunnegga has a lovely lookout point, and from there, you can
see the deep green forests, dotted with chalets and meadows, leading down into
Zermatt.
The trail from Sunnegga down to Zermatt is a favorite among hikers,
not just because it’s a downhill walk, but because it passes through some of
the most beautiful forested areas in the region. After spending the previous
day hiking above the tree line, where the landscape is dominated by rocks,
glaciers, and open skies, today’s hike offered a contrast that we were eager to
experience. The forests of Zermatt have their own kind of magic, with dense
groves of fir and pine trees creating a serene, fairytale atmosphere.
As we set off down the trail, the path wound through alpine meadows
before gradually descending into the forest. The change in scenery was
immediate and refreshing. The crisp scent of pine filled the air, and the shade
from the trees was a welcome respite from the occasional bursts of sunlight. It
felt like we were stepping into a different world, leaving behind the open
expanses of the high Alps and entering a peaceful, quiet woodland.
The trail was well-marked, but we took our time, stopping often to
admire the surroundings. Every so often, the trees would part, offering
glimpses of Zermatt far below and the mountains towering above us. The
Matterhorn still kept us company from time to time, its distinct silhouette
visible between the trees, reminding us of the previous day’s adventure.
One of the things we loved about this hike was the tranquility.
Unlike some of the busier, more popular trails, this one was quieter, with
fewer hikers sharing the path. It felt like we had the forest to ourselves at
times, accompanied only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional sound of
birds. We passed small streams trickling down the mountainside, their clear
waters glistening in the sunlight. There were also patches of wildflowers in
full bloom, adding bursts of color to the green landscape. It was the kind of
hike that allowed us to slow down, enjoy the moment, and truly appreciate the
natural beauty around us.
The descent was gentle but steady, and as we walked, we couldn’t
help but marvel at how varied the landscape of Zermatt is. One day we were
hiking on icy trails at over 10,000 feet, and the next, we were strolling
through forests, surrounded by the sounds and smells of nature at a much lower
altitude. The diversity of the terrain was part of what made Zermatt so
special—there was always something new to see, no matter where we hiked.
As we continued down the trail, we came across a few traditional
Swiss chalets, tucked away in the forest, their wooden exteriors weathered by
the elements but still exuding a timeless charm. These chalets, with their
bright flower boxes and cozy appearance, looked like they belonged on a
postcard. It was easy to imagine how peaceful life must be up here, away from
the hustle and bustle of the village below.
One of the highlights of the hike was reaching a viewpoint that
offered an incredible panorama of Zermatt and the surrounding valley. From this
vantage point, the village looked small and distant, nestled in the valley
floor, surrounded by towering peaks on all sides. The green pastures and dense
forests contrasted beautifully with the rocky, snow-capped mountains, and the
scene was so picturesque that we spent a good amount of time just taking it all
in.
Eventually, the trail began to wind back toward the village, and as
we descended further, we began to hear the sounds of Zermatt in the distance.
By the time we reached the outskirts of Zermatt, the trees had thinned, and we
found ourselves walking through open meadows once again, with the rooftops of
the village just ahead.
As we walked back into town, we were both filled with a sense of
contentment. The hike from Sunnegga to Zermatt had been the perfect way to
spend the day—less intense than our Matterhorn adventure, but equally rewarding
in its own way. The forests of Zermatt had shown us a different side of the
Alps, one that was quieter, more intimate, and just as beautiful as the
high-altitude vistas we had seen the day before.
That evening, back in the village, we reflected on the contrasts we
had experienced in just two days. From icy, windswept trails high above the
tree line to the peaceful, shaded forests below, Zermatt had given us a taste
of the incredible variety that the Swiss Alps have to offer. And with each
hike, we fell a little more in love with this place, knowing that we had
created memories that would last a lifetime.