Walking the Offa's Dyke Path
Day Five: Trial by Gale
A herd of wild ponies
The four intrepid hikers departed from their cozy farmhouse accommodation and climbed back up into the heart of the
Brecon Beacons National Park
. Their mission: a grueling 13-mile ridge-line trek from Longtown/Llanthony to Hay-on-Wye.
The ascent to the ridge demanded an exhausting hour and a half of climbing up steep, heather-covered hillsides. At one point, they lost sight of the Offa’s Dyke Path, leaving them unsure of their direction. Then, in a surreal twist, a herd of wild ponies appeared seemingly out of nowhere. As if sent by fate, the ponies guided them back toward the path—straight out of a storybook.
The previous day had tested them with steep hills and gusty winds, but today’s challenge was on another level. This was a trial by gale force winds. For three relentless hours, the hikers battled the elements, struggling against unyielding gusts that never dipped below 40 miles per hour—often surging to 60 miles per hour. At one point, Mary was blown over by the sheer force of the wind, fortunately escaping unharmed.
Brecon Beacons National Park
Though the air temperature registered at 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the wind chill made it feel brutally colder. The biting cold, combined with the constant gusts, left them drained and unable to establish any kind of walking rhythm. At one point, Julia became dangerously cold, prompting Ernest and Mary to help her put on an extra layer while sheltering behind a rocky outcrop. The wind was so fierce that it took all three of them to assist her with her fleece.
The rugged path—scattered with rocks, streams, ruts, and, of course, mud—added to the difficulty. After hours of unrelenting battle against the wind, the trail finally turned eastward, guiding them down the side of the mountain. As they descended, the merciless gale finally released its grip. Later, a local resident informed them that these were some of the worst winds ever recorded in Wales.
A wind chill way below freezing
Once safely in the valley, the hikers were greeted with serene, rolling fields—an astonishing contrast to the chaos of the ridge. Their journey soon led them to
Hay-on-Wye
, where they celebrated their survival with warm cappuccinos and sweet cakes. The charming town, famous for its more than 30 bookstores, quaint shops, an old cinema, and a ramshackle stone castle, was a welcomed respite. After enduring their most grueling day yet, they would forever remember the Trial by Gale—a test of sheer endurance and willpower.
What challenges lie ahead? Will they reach the halfway mark of their journey? Join me in the next installment of Walking the Offa's Dyke Path.