Japan
Nikko, Tosho-gu
A snowy river in Nikko
From Sapporo it will take five train
changes, the crossing of the Tsugaru
Strait, and 605 miles of travel before
one arrives at Nikko the city of
sunlight. Keep in mind that train travel
is a very up-market experience in Japan.
And trains are very clean. Their seats
are like seats in a business class
section of a modern commercial airliner;
with all kinds of electric adjustments
and buttons. Often smiling women dressed
like a flight attendant, circa 1970,
will greet you. The Shinkansen or Bullet
Trains are certainly fast and hit speeds
of 130 kilometers or 80 miles per hour.
Lavishly decorated shrine complex
of Nikko Tosho-gu
The sleepy little country town of
Nikko is located 87 miles north of Tokyo
and is nestled in the magnificent
Tochigi Mountains. These mountains are
just west of the main city and are part
of the Nikko National Park. This park
contains some of the country's most
spectacular waterfalls, scenic trails,
mountainous landscapes, lakes, hot
springs, and wild monkeys. And let's not
forget the many hot springs or onsens
that Nikko is famous for. An absolute
must see. Be careful when walking in
Japan as you will no doubt come across
rows of Bodhisattva. These sites are
memorials for dead children and require
your respect.
If natural wonders are not your cup
of tea then Nikko has a rich history. It
has been a center of Shinto and Buddhist
mountain worship for many centuries. In
766 Shodo Shonin established the temple
of Rinno-ji there. The temple of
Chuzen-ji followed in 784. Then there is
the lavishly decorated shrine complex of
Nikko Tosho-gu; completed in 1617. Nikko
also offers the mausoleum of shogun
Tokugawa Ieyasu and his grandson
Iemitsu. And you may enjoy the Futarasan
Shrine too, which dates to the year 767.
A raptor in Nikko
A recommended place to stay while
visiting Nikko is the hotel Kanaya.
Built in the 1930s in a western style,
which was popular at the time, it was
once grand. It has become a bit rough
around the edges these days, but is a
colorful, safe, clean place to stay when
in town. There is a Buddhist Bible in
all hotels in Japan. A message from the
Buddha: To conquer oneself is a greater
victory than to conquer thousands in
battle. It is a man's own mind, not his
enemy or foe that lures him into evil
ways.
We will
continue heading south, in my next
installment of traveling in Japan.