Japan
Nikko, Tosho-gu
A snowy river in Nikko
Traveling from Sapporo to Nikko is no small feat. The journey spans 605 miles, involves five train transfers, and requires crossing the Tsugaru Strait. However, train travel in Japan is a luxurious and highly efficient experience. Japanese trains are immaculate, with seats resembling those in the business class section of a modern airliner—complete with electronic adjustments. Often, uniformed attendants, reminiscent of 1970s-era flight crew, greet passengers with a smile. The famous Shinkansen, or Bullet Trains, reach speeds of 130 kilometers per hour (80 miles per hour), making for a swift and comfortable ride.
Lavishly decorated shrine complex of Nikko Tosho-gu
Nestled 87 miles north of Tokyo, the quiet town of Nikko sits amid the breathtaking Tochigi Mountains. Just west of the main city, these mountains form part of Nikko National Park—one of Japan’s most spectacular natural reserves. The park boasts magnificent waterfalls, scenic trails, rugged mountain landscapes, serene lakes, steaming hot springs, and even wild monkeys. Of course, Nikko is renowned for its onsens (hot springs), an experience that should not be missed.
While exploring Japan, travelers may stumble upon rows of Bodhisattva statues—memorial sites for deceased children. These locations hold deep cultural significance, so approaching them with respect is essential.
If natural wonders aren’t your focus, Nikko offers a fascinating historical experience. For centuries, it has been a center for Shinto and Buddhist mountain worship. The influential monk Shodo Shonin founded Rinno-ji Temple in 766, followed by Chuzen-ji Temple in 784. The splendid shrine complex of Nikko Tosho-gu was completed in 1617, and the town is also home to the mausoleum of legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and his grandson Iemitsu. Another must-see is Futarasan Shrine, dating back to 767.
A raptor in Nikko
For accommodation, the Kanaya Hotel in Nikko is a recommended choice. Originally built in the 1930s in a Western architectural style, it once stood as a grand establishment. While it has aged over the years, it remains a safe, clean, and colorful place to stay in town.
Every hotel in Japan includes a Buddhist Bible. One memorable quote from Buddha reads: "To conquer oneself is a greater victory than to conquer thousands in battle. It is a man's own mind, not his enemy or foe, that lures him into evil ways."
We will continue heading south in the next installment of our journey through Japan.