Ireland
Part Two
Wednesday, August 2, 2017, Limerick
King John's Castle
‣ There once was a young girl named Julia
‣ Who really loved her petunias
‣ She planted all day
‣ But they did not stay
‣ And so, she stopped planting petunias
Limerick is the first genuinely large city we've encountered in Ireland. Dublin and Galway are bigger, but they're overflowing with tourists and craic (the term for fun in Ireland). This has given these Irish cities a somewhat artificial feeling. Limerick, on the other hand, is clean and vibrant but has few tourists, making it a more authentic Irish city gradually undergoing gentrification.
The Shannon River
Limerick's most famous attraction is King John's Castle. The audiovisual presentation at this excellent venue provides great insight into Ireland's history - a tumultuous story of invasion, rebellion, and more invasion. I thought Russia's history was turbulent (and it is), but it pales in comparison to Ireland's painful past.
‣ There once was a leader named Trump
‣ Whose fans made him king of the dump
‣ The Russians he heeded
‣ His tweets were unneeded
‣ Oh, that plump and indolent chump Trump
Thursday, August 3, 2017
Desmond Castle
Desmond Castle, as it's popularly known, dates from the 12th century and stands on the north bank of the Maigue River. Since 1996 it has undergone extensive renovations that continue today. Guided tours are offered during summer months, which we took advantage of. This is the most castle-like castle we've seen so far - complete with moats, drawbridges, massive gates, and stone walls - making for an amazing experience.
Next we visited a little-known but historically significant site: Knockfeerina. Julia discovered this place by visiting the public library - how's that for low-tech research!
The Knockfeerina region has been settled since Neolithic times, evidenced by a wedge tomb on Knockfeerina Hill in Kilmacow County. There's also an Early Bronze Age cist grave at Frankfort and a standing stone at Ballygrennan. These relics suggest continuous settlement into the later Bronze Age in this beautiful region, though it has its dark history too.
Knockfeerina
Knockfeerina, the highest point in County Limerick at approximately 950 feet, was once common land where anyone could live. During the famine years (1845-1852), many of Ireland's dispossessed came here. Some had been evicted for unpaid rent, while others simply had nowhere else to go as work disappeared across Ireland.
Knockfeerina countryside
Foundations of primitive shacks remain on Knockfeerina since its abandonment in 1847. The small, long-forgotten village spreads over about 200 acres, with remnants of many tiny 8x8 foot houses still standing. These meager cottages had just walls and clay floors with sod roofs. An estimated 130 families lived here at one time. These structures are now being preserved in memory of those who died during that terrible period.
The views of the lush green countryside from here are unparalleled.
Friday, August 4, 2017, Killarney
Lough Leane
‣ There once was a young man named Arney
‣ Who fought in the war in the army
‣ He killed all day long
‣ And he killed at night too
‣ So that's why they called him Killarney
Today we hiked around Lough Leane, starting at Muckross House - an impressive old mansion with manicured grounds on the lake's edge. We walked to the Meeting of the Waters, where smaller lakes converge with the larger Lough Leane. After eating cheese sandwiches at the teahouse, we made the steep 1,500-foot ascent up Torc Mountain in just thirty minutes. The effort was worthwhile for the superb views of lakes and mountains from the summit - locals call this "cardiac hill" for good reason. After taking in the vista, we continued to the small but serene Torc Falls before returning to Muckross House, satisfied with our strenuous lake hike.
Muckross House
Saturday, August 5, 2017
Gap of Dunloe
Millennia ago, when glaciers covered Ireland, the Gap of Dunloe was carved from solid rock by powerful, relentless ice. We hiked through this spectacular landscape today, immersed in its lush green vistas. Of course, modern Ireland can deliver rain at any moment, any time of year - which it did about four miles into our seven-mile hike. We've grown accustomed to changeable weather since arriving, but today brought a torrential downpour that soaked us for ten minutes before the sun returned (as it does in Ireland), allowing us to dry while wandering through the beautiful, rugged valley.
A very soggy bottom
We eventually reached Lough Leane's upper lake, where we ate bacon sandwiches and drank lattes while waiting for a motorboat. The boat offered amazing views of the countryside as it transported us across the lake. Midway through, the engine failed, leaving us adrift until another boat towed us - an unexpected coupling that soaked Julia and me again, though we're now quite used to getting wet in Ireland.
We disembarked at Ross Castle, happy with our adventure despite our very soggy bottoms.
Sunday, August 6, 2017
Celtic Village
We drove through pouring rain, single-lane roads, and howling winds to Dunquin - mainland Ireland's westernmost point. This rugged coastline hosts 5,000-year-old ruins of a Celtic Village, some of the first inhabitants of this green, damp country. The challenging drive was worthwhile to experience how our ancestors survived in such an inhospitable place.
Monday, August 7, 2017
Muckross Abbey
We walked through Muckross House's lush grounds to the ruined Muckross Abbey. For ruins, the abbey remains remarkably intact. Our lakeshore walk took us through emerald woodlands, and miraculously, the rain held off all day - praise Darwin!
Tuesday, August 8, 2017
Summit of Carrauntoohil
Today we climbed Ireland's highest mountain, Carrauntoohil (3,406 feet/1,038 m). While not the tallest we've climbed, it proved extremely challenging. Intermittent rain soaked us all day, and standing atop the wind-battered summit drenched and cold wasn't exactly fun. Clouds mostly obscured the amazing views, so we caught only fleeting glimpses. I was relieved when we finally reached our car to dry off, leaving this soggy mountain behind.
Wednesday, August 9, 2017
Lunch in Cork
We began our journey back to the U.S. today, driving from Killarney to Dublin with a lunch stop in Cork.
Ireland's natural beauty overwhelmed us, and we deeply appreciated its people's friendliness. We'll return someday - I can't wait to revisit this emerald isle.
Thursday, August 10, 2017
Iceland
Our journey home continued with a flight to Iceland. WOW Air proved horrible - hard seats and fees for everything - but it's good to be back in Iceland, one step closer to home.
Friday, August 11, 2017
Goodbye Iceland
Before our Seattle flight, we walked near Keflavik Airport where we'd spent the night. Iceland presents both a tourist face and a realistic one. While stunningly beautiful, it has one of the world's highest antidepressant usage rates. Why? Months of darkness and freezing cold drive many Icelanders to self-medicate - a problem the U.S. shares, unfortunately.