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A Swiss Adventure

Touring and hiking

Faulhorn hut

A person wearing sunglasses and a hat

Description automatically generated First cable car station

Our adventure began at the First cable car station, a scenic spot just above Grindelwald. The weather forecast predicted a day of rain, but we weren’t deterred. Armed with waterproof jackets, a sense of excitement, and a bit of uncertainty about what lay ahead, Julia and I set off into the misty mountain landscape, ready for the overnight hike from First to the Faulhorn hut, nestled high in the Bernese Alps.

The rain started as a light drizzle, making the grass glisten, the air smell of fresh earth, and the world around us feel like something out of a dream. The path wound its way along ridges and meadows, offering fleeting glimpses of the jagged peaks looming through the clouds. Despite the rain, the hike was beautiful. The sound of our footsteps merged with the rhythm of raindrops pattering against rocks and our jackets.

At times, the mist closed in so thickly that the surrounding world disappeared, leaving just the two of us walking through a silvery veil. It was serene, almost meditative, the quiet interrupted only by the occasional cowbell chiming somewhere in the fog. We passed a few fellow hikers, their spirits just as damp as ours but equally determined to press on.

As we made our way toward the Faulhorn hut, trudging through the mist and rain, something unexpected brightened our spirits—a sudden rustling in the bushes just off the trail. Julia was the first to notice, stopping mid-stride and pointing with a soft, “Look!” There, not more than a few meters away, stood a mountain fox.

It was a beautiful creature, its thick coat damp from the rain, a mix of orange, white, black and brown that blended almost perfectly with the surrounding rocky terrain. Its eyes, bright and alert, locked onto ours for a moment, assessing us as much as we were captivated by it. Time seemed to slow down, the rain still falling in a steady rhythm, but for that moment, the fox became the center of our world.

We stood still, not wanting to spook it. The fox seemed to sense we meant no harm, and after a moment, it continued its business, sniffing the ground, possibly looking for food. It was surprisingly calm, as though it was used to the presence of hikers along the trail. The creature’s sleek form moved gracefully, its paws barely making a sound as it stepped over wet grass and rocks.

A person standing on a rock with a rain poncho

Description automatically generated Bachalpsee Lake

For a few magical moments, we were able to observe it, fascinated by how perfectly it fit into this alpine environment. Its bushy tail swayed gently behind it, and its coat looked so thick and warm that I almost envied it in the chilly, wet conditions. The rain, which had felt like a burden just minutes before, seemed to enhance the scene. The misty atmosphere, the dripping leaves, and the soft gray light created an ethereal backdrop for this wild encounter.

Then, just as quickly as it appeared, the fox gave one last glance in our direction before slipping away. We watched as it disappeared into the mist, leaving us with a sense of wonder. There was something magical about seeing this wild creature so close and in such a remote, mist-covered setting. It felt like a gift from the mountains themselves, a reminder that this rugged landscape was home to more than just dramatic vistas—it was alive with creatures that thrive in its harsh beauty.

As we continued our hike, the encounter stayed with us. We spoke about the fox for the rest of the day, marveling at how it had emerged from the fog as if it had materialized just for us, a moment of wild beauty on a challenging, rain-soaked journey. It added a sense of magic to our trek to the Faulhorn hut, a memory that stood out amid the rugged terrain and wet conditions.

The trail to the Faulhorn hut is known for its stunning views, but on that day, it was more about the journey than the vistas. The steep sections, made slippery by the rain, slowed our pace, but we embraced the challenge, knowing that we were heading toward a cozy mountain refuge. There’s something intimate about hiking in the rain—it makes you more aware of the immediate environment, the texture of the path beneath your boots, the smell of wet grass, and the camaraderie that develops when you’re both braving the elements together.

 Faulhorn hut

After several hours of steady trekking, we reached the Faulhorn hut, a welcome sight through the mist. Perched at 2,681 meters (8,796 feet), it felt like a remote outpost at the edge of the world. We were greeted by the dry hut, a stark contrast to the damp, cold world outside. Inside, the atmosphere was cozy, with other hikers drying off and enjoying hot meals. We settled in for the evening, grateful for the comfort.

Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau

 Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau

We woke early the next morning to one of the most spectacular sights: the sunrise over the Swiss Alps. As we stepped outside, the world had transformed. The rain had cleared, leaving behind a perfect morning of deep blue skies and crisp mountain air. The horizon was painted in shades of pink and gold as the first light of the day hit the surrounding peaks. It was an unforgettable moment. The Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau stood proudly against the sky, their snow-capped summits glowing in the early light. We stood in awe, watching as the sun slowly illuminated the mountains, the valleys below still in shadow, creating a stunning contrast.

 Faulhorn hut

After a quick breakfast, we began our hike toward Schynige Platte. The trail was completely different from the day before. Where we had walked in fog and rain, now we had clear, unobstructed views of the mountains and valleys stretching out in all directions. The terrain was more forgiving too, with gentle rolling hills and rocky paths leading us along a ridge with panoramic vistas.

The Faulhorn hike is famous for a reason. Every step felt like walking through a postcard—lush green meadows dotted with alpine flowers, sharp mountain ridges, cows grazing and their bells ringing, and crystal-clear lakes. At times, we could see all the way down to the shimmering waters of Lake Brienz, the turquoise color contrasting beautifully with the surrounding peaks.

As we made our way closer to Schynige Platte, the path became more rugged. We crossed rocky outcrops, skirted the edge of cliffs, and climbed steadily down. The effort was well worth it. Every few minutes, we’d stop to marvel at the ever-changing views. The weather remained flawless, and the clear skies provided us with perfect views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau throughout the day. It was hard to believe that just 24 hours earlier, we had been hiking through rain and fog.

Despite the elevation and the distance, the second day felt easier, perhaps because of the inspiring scenery around us. Every step felt lighter, energized by the beauty of the landscape. We took breaks to simply sit and soak in the views, the silence of the mountains only broken by the occasional sound of a bird or distant cowbell. We even stopped at the Berghaus Männdlenen hut to drink coffee.

Reaching Schynige Platte felt like the perfect conclusion to our two-day adventure. The views from the plateau are famous, and with the weather on our side, we could see for miles in every direction. The charming little mountain train station, perched at 2,000 meters, was a sight to behold. It was a delightful mix of alpine tradition and Swiss engineering, with a train ready to take us back down to civilization after our journey.

Looking back, the contrast between the two days—one shrouded in rain and mist, the other under clear blue skies—made the experience even more memorable. The mountains had shown us two different faces, each beautiful in its own way. Hiking from First to Faulhorn and on to Schynige Platte was an adventure we’ll never forget, a journey through the heart of the Swiss Alps that reminded us of nature’s power, beauty, and unpredictability. The memories of that sunrise over the mountains and the endless views will stay with us for a lifetime.

A group of people walking on a path

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