Ireland
Part One
Thursday, July 27, 2017, Dublin
First nighttime in a week
ASS had us in its treacherous grip once again. Yes, Julia and I fell victim to this dreaded ailment: Arrival Shock Syndrome (ASS). We landed in the early morning hours and departed our delayed WOW flight. We left the airport at night, which we hadn't experienced for over a week. Drove our rental car on the left-hand side of the road. Went around traffic circles counter-clockwise. All under the direction of a wayward GPS that kept dropping its connection and got us lost in the complex one-way streets of Dublin.
We were glad to arrive alive at our sweltering hotel, and soon fell into a comatose sleep in the wonderful darkness.
The next morning we decided to switch hotels and took our rental car onto Dublin's complicated streets again. Once more we pitted our wayward GPS and nerves against the labyrinth of Dublin's streets and its morning traffic. We made it intact to our new hotel, relieved we could now walk rather than drive to any destination in the coming days.
The River Liffey
Dublin is a party city. It reminds me of Prague in the Czech Republic. While the architecture differs, it has the same throngs of tourists and their accompanying revelry.
Amid the sightseers dodging city traffic is the peaceful Trinity College. Founded in 1592 as the "mother" of a new university, it was modeled after Oxford and Cambridge, but unlike them, only one college was ever established. It is Ireland's oldest university.
Trinity College
Dublin Castle was our next stop. This impressive structure served as the seat of UK government administration in Ireland until 1922. Now a major Irish government complex, most of it dates from the 18th century, though a castle has stood there since King John's reign. After the 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty, it was handed over to the Provisional Government led by Michael Collins.
We wish Robyn well
Dodging rain showers, we visited the Dublin Writers Museum. Opened in November 1991 at 18 Parnell Square, it occupies an 18th-century house containing museum rooms, library, gallery, and administration area. It showcases Irish literature and complements smaller museums devoted to individuals like Joyce, Shaw, Yeats and Pearse. The audio tour is exceptional.
That evening we attended Robyn Richardson's recital at St. Ann's Church. The singing was wonderful, the piano melodic, and the whole event warm and inviting. We wish Robyn well as she continues her opera studies in England.
Friday, July 28, 2017
Christ Church Cathedral
Today we visited Christ Church Cathedral. The experience was typical - huge pipe organ, gold and wood decorations, and religious stories depicted in various art forms. The most interesting part was its ancient catacombs.
Next was the Guinness Storehouse. Initially unimpressed, we found it surprisingly fun - like Disneyland merged with an Irish pub. The cold, creamy Guinness we drank at the end smoothed out all oddities.
Disney-Guinness
We returned exhausted from walking and sightseeing. The Spire of Dublin reliably guided us back - a 120-meter (390-foot) stainless steel monument on O'Connell Street, hard to miss.
Saturday, July 29, 2017
Tyrrellspass Castle
We left Dublin for Galway, encountering many castles along the way: Tyrrellspass, Athlone, and Athenry. We arrived in Galway exhausted but impressed by the green countryside and castles.
Sunday, July 30, 2017, Galway
Cong
In Galway's countryside lies Cong - a well-preserved medieval village that shares a Hollywood connection with King Kong. It was the location for John Ford's 1952 film "The Quiet Man" starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. We ate lunch there and walked the riverside path, seeing no oversized gorillas.
Killary Fjord
Next was Killary Fjord near Leenaun - Ireland's only fjord. Having come from Iceland, it looked familiar: remote, stark, and beautiful.
We then visited Kylemore Abbey, a Benedictine nunnery founded in 1920 on the grounds of Kylemore Castle in Connemara. The nuns had fled Belgium during World War I.
Kylemore Castle
Built as a private home for Mitchell Henry's family, the castle had 33 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, multiple sitting rooms, a ballroom, and staff quarters. Other buildings include a Gothic cathedral and family mausoleum.
Kylemore Abbey Victorian Walled Garden
The most impressive part of Kylemore Abbey today is its Victorian Walled Garden, beautifully maintained and in full bloom during our visit.
We returned to Galway via the Twelve Pins/Bens - a mountain range of quartzite peaks northeast of Roundstone, popular with hikers. The highest peak is Benbaun at 729 meters (2,392 feet). Though we didn't hike them this time, we may return to tackle these beauties.
The Twelve Pins
Monday, July 31, 2017
Gorumna Island
An Irish friend had told me, "Any time's good to visit Ireland - it's always bloody raining there." He wasn't wrong. Mid-summer brings constant on-and-off rain. Not cold when the wind stops, but certainly wet.
We hiked on Gorumna Island despite the weather - one of many islands west of Galway. The granite-strewn, treeless, boggy countryside against the Atlantic was spectacular.
On our return, a car-chasing dog adopted us. His habit of stalking every passing car will likely shorten his lifespan, but we all have our vices.
Tuesday, August 1, 2017
Dunguaire Castle
We left Galway for Dunguaire Castle - a 16th-century tower house on Galway Bay near Kinvara. Named after King Guaire of Connacht, its 75-foot tower and walls have been restored for summer tourists.
Ballyvaughan in Clare
We ate lunch in Ballyvaughan - no better place for a cheese sandwich than by the seaside. The sun appeared between stormy skies, turning the Atlantic blue.
We followed the coastal road for miles with ocean views and granite hills, stopping to watch hardy Irish surfers in the chilly waters.
Cliffs of Moher
Our day ended at the Cliffs of Moher, overflowing with tourists but worth the crowds to experience this glorious place.