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A Swiss Adventure

Touring and hiking

Zermatt

After a few incredible days exploring Lauterbrunnen and the Jungfrau region, Julia and I packed up our bags for the next leg of our Swiss adventure: Zermatt. Our time in Lauterbrunnen had been everything we imagined: breathtaking hikes, mountain vistas, and even a close encounter with a curious mountain fox. But as always, when one chapter closes, another begins, and Zermatt had been on our list for a long time.

The journey from Lauterbrunnen to Zermatt was yet another reminder of why Swiss trains are so revered. It’s not just the efficiency, though that certainly is a welcome change from many other places; it’s the experience itself. The trains glided through alpine landscapes as though they were part of the scenery, revealing jaw-dropping views around every bend. Even though I’ve seen my fair share of mountains, there’s something about Switzerland’s peaks that never fails to amaze me. On this trip, the landscape shifted from the deep valleys and waterfalls of the Jungfrau region to the more rugged, towering peaks that signaled our approach to Zermatt.

We arrived in Zermatt on a wet, cloudy afternoon. The weather had closed in, giving the entire place a soft, misty atmosphere that felt fitting for a mountain village at the foot of the mighty Matterhorn. While the clouds obscured much of the surrounding mountains, it added a cozy, intimate vibe to the town, as if Zermatt was whispering to us to take things slowly.

One of the first things we noticed, and which struck us as quite unusual, was the absence of cars in the town. Zermatt has a strict no-car policy, which we both loved immediately. The silence on the streets was refreshing, broken only by the occasional electric taxi humming along or the sound of footsteps on wet cobblestones. It felt like a step back in time, or at least a step toward a more sustainable future. You could walk around without the usual city noise, and it created a certain peace that added to the town's charm.

What was ahead of us

We took one of these electric taxis to our hotel, which turned out to be just as lovely as the rest of Zermatt. The hotel had a warm, welcoming atmosphere with wooden beams and large windows that would, on a clearer day, have given us perfect views of the Matterhorn. The room was cozy, and after a morning of travel, we were more than ready to unwind. Luckily, the hotel had a spa, and we wasted no time in taking full advantage of it.

Zermatt itself is a delightful village. Even though the clouds hung low, masking the peaks that usually dominate the skyline, the charm of the town still shone through. The narrow streets, lined with Swiss chalets, cafes, and boutique shops, made for a lovely place to wander aimlessly. We spent the afternoon walking the quiet streets, breathing in the fresh alpine air, and marveling at how even in the rain, Zermatt maintained its beauty.

Our wandering eventually led us to the search for dinner. After a few days of hearty mountain food, we both craved something a little lighter, and to our surprise, we found a lovely restaurant that offered vegan dishes. In a town known for its cheese-heavy, meat-centric alpine cuisine, this was an unexpected and welcome discovery. The restaurant was cozy, with a modern touch, and the food was fantastic.

By the time we left the restaurant, the rain had slowed to a drizzle, and the streets of Zermatt were quiet and still. We walked back to the hotel, the cool air on our faces and the sound of rain softly tapping on the rooftops.

Tomorrow, we would explore more of what Zermatt had to offer, and hopefully, we’d get a clearer view of the iconic mountain. But for now, we were more than happy to enjoy the peacefulness of the evening, the warmth of the hotel, and the knowledge that we were in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Matterhorn

The next morning, we woke up to something truly magical: blue skies stretching across Zermatt, and there it was—the Matterhorn, looming large, standing proud against the sky, dominating every view. After the previous day’s mist and rain, waking to clear skies felt like a gift, as if the mountain had chosen this day to reveal itself in all its glory. No matter where we turned, the jagged peak of the Matterhorn followed us, capturing our attention and pulling us closer.

The excitement of the day buzzed between us as we grabbed a quick breakfast, fueling up for what we knew would be a strenuous adventure. Today was the day we would get closer to the legendary mountain, hiking a trail that led up to the basecamp hut (Hörnli Hut) used by climbers preparing to summit the Matterhorn itself. We were not planning on attempting the summit, but the hike to basecamp was adventure enough for us, especially knowing the altitude and conditions that awaited us.

Zermatt, as usual, was bustling but peaceful. We walked through the town, the Matterhorn ever-present above us, and made our way to the gondola station. Gondolas are one of the great conveniences of the Alps, and this one whisked us effortlessly up the mountainside, leaving the town below, getting us closer to the trailhead. As we ascended, the landscape changed from rolling green meadows dotted with chalets to the more rugged, rocky terrain of high alpine altitudes.

At the top of the gondola, we stepped out and felt the crispness of the mountain air, so much cooler at altitude, but invigorating. The trail before us snaked its way upward, with the Matterhorn always looming ahead, its sharp, triangular face cutting through the blue sky. The day was perfect for hiking—clear skies, cool temperatures, and endless views.

We steeled ourselves for what would be a challenging hike. The trail was steep, with a total elevation gain of about 3000 feet, and we were already starting at an altitude of roughly 8000 feet. At that elevation, every step feels a little harder, the air thinner, but the excitement and the beauty of the surroundings kept us going. We started at a steady pace, knowing it would be a long climb but savoring each moment.

The vistas along the trail were nothing short of breathtaking. As we climbed higher, the views back toward Zermatt and the surrounding valleys opened up in ways we hadn’t expected. The village looked tiny and far away, nestled between towering mountains, and the sky stretched endlessly above us. To our left and right, sharp peaks and glaciers created a scene so otherworldly that at times it felt like we were walking through a postcard or a dream. Every now and then, we would stop to take it all in—to rest, to breathe, and to appreciate the vastness of the landscape around us.

But the trail was no easy stroll. The incline was constant, and the higher we went, the more we could feel the altitude taking its toll. There were sections of the trail where patches of ice still clung stubbornly to the rocky path, adding an extra layer of challenge to the hike. At times, we had to tread carefully, choosing our steps with caution and gripping the rocks as we made our way upward. But despite the steepness and the icy patches, Julia pushed on with determination. We both did. There’s something about the allure of a mountain like the Matterhorn that pulls you upward, even when your legs start to tire or your breath becomes a little shallower.

The higher we climbed, the more expansive the views became, and each new vista was somehow more spectacular than the last. The sharp, craggy peaks, the glaciers gleaming in the sunlight, the deep valleys far below—it was a landscape that felt humbling in its vastness and beauty.

Though we pushed ourselves, we were always mindful of the time. The last gondola back down to Zermatt had a fixed schedule, and we didn’t want to miss it, as hiking back down in the gathering cold and darkness wasn’t an option we wanted to entertain. We made it just short of the basecamp hut when we realized that we would have to turn back. We had hoped to make it all the way, but the mountain had dictated otherwise. At that moment, standing just shy of our goal, it was hard to feel disappointed. The journey had been incredible, and the experience of being on that trail, with the Matterhorn towering above us, was enough.

On our way back down, the views seemed just as awe-inspiring as they had on the ascent. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows over the mountains, and as we retraced our steps, we could appreciate all over again the grandeur of the Swiss Alps. Descending was easier on the lungs but harder on the knees, and we were grateful when we finally arrived back at the gondola station.

As we descended back into the village, the Matterhorn stood tall behind us, bathed in the soft light of the setting sun. We were tired but exhilarated, knowing that we had just experienced something truly special—a hike that pushed us physically but rewarded us with some of the most spectacular mountain views we had ever seen. The trail had been challenging, the altitude had been punishing at times, but every step had been worth it.

Back in Zermatt, we decided to celebrate the day in style, treating ourselves to a posh restaurant for a luxurious 8-course vegan meal. Each dish was a work of art, beautifully presented and bursting with flavors that surprised and delighted us. From delicate starters to rich, satisfying mains, the meal felt like a reward for the effort we had put into our hike. The atmosphere was elegant, with soft lighting and an attentive staff that made the experience all the more special. Our legs were sore, and we knew we’d be feeling the effects of the hike for days to come, but none of that mattered as we savored each course. The memory of that day—the sight of the Matterhorn from so many angles, the thrill of the climb—blended seamlessly with the indulgence of the meal. It was a day, and an evening, that would stay with us long after the soreness had faded.

Sunnegga to Zermatt

The day after our exhilarating adventure up the Matterhorn, we decided to take things a bit easier but still wanted to make the most of the stunning scenery around Zermatt. Our legs were still recovering from the steep ascent and altitude of the previous day's hike, but the allure of the Swiss Alps was too strong to resist. So, we chose a hike that would take us through a different side of Zermatt—the forests below the tree line—on a trail from Sunnegga back down to the village.

The morning began like so many others in Zermatt, with a quick glance out the window to check the weather. The skies were partly cloudy, with the sun breaking through in patches, casting a warm glow over the mountains. It was perfect hiking weather, especially for a trail that promised to be less strenuous than the previous day’s trek.

We headed out after breakfast, walking through the now-familiar streets of Zermatt to the gondola station. The Sunnegga gondola is another marvel of Swiss engineering, whisking passengers from the town up to the higher slopes of the mountain in a matter of minutes. The ride itself was smooth and quiet, offering us more fantastic views of the surrounding peaks. Though not as towering or dramatic as the Matterhorn, the mountains around Sunnegga had a gentler beauty, with slopes covered in forests and meadows that stretched out below us.

A mountain with snow on top

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At the top, we stepped out into the fresh mountain air and took a moment to take in the panoramic view. The Matterhorn was still visible, albeit from a different angle, and the surrounding peaks, though less imposing, were no less beautiful. Sunnegga has a lovely lookout point, and from there, you can see the deep green forests, dotted with chalets and meadows, leading down into Zermatt.

The trail from Sunnegga down to Zermatt is a favorite among hikers, not just because it’s a downhill walk, but because it passes through some of the most beautiful forested areas in the region. After spending the previous day hiking above the tree line, where the landscape is dominated by rocks, glaciers, and open skies, today’s hike offered a contrast that we were eager to experience. The forests of Zermatt have their own kind of magic, with dense groves of fir and pine trees creating a serene, fairytale atmosphere.

As we set off down the trail, the path wound through alpine meadows before gradually descending into the forest. The change in scenery was immediate and refreshing. The crisp scent of pine filled the air, and the shade from the trees was a welcome respite from the occasional bursts of sunlight. It felt like we were stepping into a different world, leaving behind the open expanses of the high Alps and entering a peaceful, quiet woodland.

The trail was well-marked, but we took our time, stopping often to admire the surroundings. Every so often, the trees would part, offering glimpses of Zermatt far below and the mountains towering above us. The Matterhorn still kept us company from time to time, its distinct silhouette visible between the trees, reminding us of the previous day’s adventure.

One of the things we loved about this hike was the tranquility. Unlike some of the busier, more popular trails, this one was quieter, with fewer hikers sharing the path. It felt like we had the forest to ourselves at times, accompanied only by the rustling of leaves and the occasional sound of birds. We passed small streams trickling down the mountainside, their clear waters glistening in the sunlight. There were also patches of wildflowers in full bloom, adding bursts of color to the green landscape. It was the kind of hike that allowed us to slow down, enjoy the moment, and truly appreciate the natural beauty around us.

The descent was gentle but steady, and as we walked, we couldn’t help but marvel at how varied the landscape of Zermatt is. One day we were hiking on icy trails at over 10,000 feet, and the next, we were strolling through forests, surrounded by the sounds and smells of nature at a much lower altitude. The diversity of the terrain was part of what made Zermatt so special—there was always something new to see, no matter where we hiked.

A small village in a valley with mountains in the background

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As we continued down the trail, we came across a few traditional Swiss chalets, tucked away in the forest, their wooden exteriors weathered by the elements but still exuding a timeless charm. These chalets, with their bright flower boxes and cozy appearance, looked like they belonged on a postcard. It was easy to imagine how peaceful life must be up here, away from the hustle and bustle of the village below.

One of the highlights of the hike was reaching a viewpoint that offered an incredible panorama of Zermatt and the surrounding valley. From this vantage point, the village looked small and distant, nestled in the valley floor, surrounded by towering peaks on all sides. The green pastures and dense forests contrasted beautifully with the rocky, snow-capped mountains, and the scene was so picturesque that we spent a good amount of time just taking it all in.

Eventually, the trail began to wind back toward the village, and as we descended further, we began to hear the sounds of Zermatt in the distance. By the time we reached the outskirts of Zermatt, the trees had thinned, and we found ourselves walking through open meadows once again, with the rooftops of the village just ahead.

As we walked back into town, we were both filled with a sense of contentment. The hike from Sunnegga to Zermatt had been the perfect way to spend the day—less intense than our Matterhorn adventure, but equally rewarding in its own way. The forests of Zermatt had shown us a different side of the Alps, one that was quieter, more intimate, and just as beautiful as the high-altitude vistas we had seen the day before.

That evening, back in the village, we reflected on the contrasts we had experienced in just two days. From icy, windswept trails high above the tree line to the peaceful, shaded forests below, Zermatt had given us a taste of the incredible variety that the Swiss Alps have to offer. And with each hike, we fell a little more in love with this place, knowing that we had created memories that would last a lifetime.



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