Cape Disappointment
Hiking and Camping
Snow Peak campground
We arrived at the Snow Peak campground in Long Beach, Washington,
eager for a mid-week escape. The campground, far from rustic, was a luxurious
retreat with everything we could need. The four of us—my wife Julia, our
friends Gordon and Jon, and their lively Chihuahua, Pepe—quickly settled in,
ready to explore the peninsula. The grounds were meticulously maintained, with
lush green lawns and paved walkways winding between the spacious,
well-appointed campsites. We had reserved one of the premium spots, which came
with a private fire pit, and a large picnic table.
The facilities were what truly set Snow Peak apart. The bathhouses
were pristine, featuring heated floors and individual private showers that felt
more like a spa than a campground lavatory. There was a large hot tub, sauna
and cold plunge pool, which we made a point to visit each evening to soothe our
tired muscles after a day of camping or exploration. There was even a small
general store on site, offering local snacks, firewood, and any camping
essentials we might have forgotten. We all felt completely spoiled by the
amenities, a welcome change from the more rugged camping trips we were used to.
With our gear unpacked and our bellies full, we were ready to start our
adventure.
Exploring the Coast
Our first adventure was an ambitious one: a long walk from Long
Beach all the way to Cape Disappointment State Park. The walk along the vast,
sandy shore was invigorating. The endless expanse of the beach, with the sound
of crashing waves and the salty air, made for a perfect morning. We spotted a
few unique things along the way, including a small lighthouse in the distance
that stood like a beacon against the gray sky.
The wildlife was abundant, and we were fascinated by the variety of
seabirds. We watched a flock of long-legged sandpipers scurry along the water's
edge, their tiny legs a blur as they chased the retreating waves to peck at
whatever the surf left behind. Further out, we saw several gulls—not just the
common variety, but also the striking western gulls with their dark backs and
bright yellow beaks. They soared on the wind, their calls echoing over the roar
of the ocean.
Perhaps the most impressive sighting was a group of pelicans flying
in a perfect V-formation just above the waves. Their massive wingspans were
incredible to watch as they glided in unison. Pepe, in his little winter coat,
was a blur of excitement, running in circles and chasing the gulls (or at least
trying to), barking with a ferocity that was comical coming from such a small
dog.
The Beauty of Waikiki Beach and Deadmans Hollow
After our long trek, we drove to the beautiful Waikiki Beach. We
were all shocked to find a beach with that name so far from Hawaii! As we
learned later, the name has a somber but fascinating origin. Back in 1811, a
ship attempting to cross the treacherous Columbia River bar was wrecked. The
body of a Hawaiian sailor who was on board was later found washed ashore on
this very beach. In a tribute to him, and as a way of memorializing the tragic
event, the locals named the area Waikiki Beach. It was a poignant reminder of
the area’s rugged and sometimes dangerous history.
The view of the bay was stunning, with the water calm and the rocky
shoreline covered in tide pools. We spotted a few families exploring the pools and
fishing. It was a beautiful place; a quiet and serene cove, tucked away within
the Cape Disappointment State Park.
Our final stop was the eerie named Deadmans Hollow. The walk was
short and beautiful, with the trail winding through a lush, dense forest. The
trees were covered in moss, and the air was still and damp, giving the place an
ancient, mystical feeling. The beach was wide and beautiful, a serene and
secluded spot that felt like a world away from the busy campground. As we
learned, the name "Deadmans Hollow" is linked to the area's
treacherous maritime history. It's said that after a shipwreck, the bodies of
sailors were found washed ashore in the hollow, a grim but powerful reminder of
the danger of the Columbia River bar and the "Graveyard of the
Pacific." It was a somber story that gave a profound sense of history to
our surroundings
We headed back to our campsite as the sun began to set, feeling
tired but completely fulfilled. The stars, unobscured by city lights, were a
spectacular sight. Our trip to Long Beach was a memorable one, filled with
stunning scenery, good company, and a lot of walking!