Northen
Killer Whales
From Emerald Dreams to Turquoise Peaks
Julia and I just got back from an incredible trip that took us from
the Olympic Peninsula deep into the wilds of British Columbia and back. We were
craving an escape from the Portland heat and a full immersion into the natural
wonders of our corner of the world. It was everything we hoped for and more.
Part I: Stepping into the Quinault Rainforest
Our adventure began in the Quinault Rainforest. As we drove closer,
I could feel the air change, becoming heavy with moisture and carrying that
distinct, earthy scent of damp soil and ancient trees. Our first stop was the
reason so many people come here: the World's Largest Sitka Spruce. I had seen
photos, but they didn’t do the living giant justice. Standing at its base, I
craned my neck to see its top. It was a truly humbling experience.
From there, we explored the rainforest itself on trails that wound
through the lush undergrowth. Every turn revealed a new spectacle—vibrant
mosses clinging to everything, ferns unfurling in intricate patterns, and the
constant, soothing sound of dripping water. It felt like we had stepped into
another world, a vibrant emerald dream. And one mustn’t forget the Cedar bog.
In the afternoon, we made our way to the stunning Lake Quinault. The
lake is surrounded by the rainforest, creating incredible reflections of the
towering trees on its still, clear surface. We spent that afternoon just
sitting by the shore, skipping stones and enjoying a tranquility that felt both
wild and serene. It was the perfect recharge and a reminder of the incredible
beauty that surrounds us.
Part II: Island Hopping to Canada
After our time among the ancient trees, we continued our journey
north to Port Angeles. With the stunning Olympic Mountains as a backdrop, this
lovely port city is the gateway to both the National Park and Canada. We walked
along the waterfront, taking in the views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and
eating our tofu sandwiches before the next leg of our journey.
The main event was the 90-minute crossing on the Coho Ferry to
Victoria, British Columbia. The air was crisp, and from the deck, we watched
the mountains of the Olympic Peninsula recede as the skyline of Victoria grew
closer. Arriving in the city felt like stepping into another world, full of
old-world charm, from the grand Parliament Buildings to the iconic Fairmont
Empress Hotel. We explored the Inner Harbor, alive with street performers and
vendors, and visited the Royal BC Museum. Our time in Victoria felt like a
dream, made even better by catching up with our friends Petra and Eric.
Part III: Into the Realm of the Orca
The charming elegance of Victoria had been wonderful, but we were
craving the wild side of British Columbia. We said our goodbyes and drove six
hours north up Highway 19, the main artery of Vancouver Island. The scenery
slowly changed from rolling farmlands to the dense, remote wilderness we were
looking for. Our destination was Port McNeill, a no-frills working town that
serves as the hub for the northern part of the island.
From Port McNeill, our whale-chasing dream became a reality. The
next morning, we met our tour group and took a short drive to our launch point:
the impossibly charming, historic boardwalk village of Telegraph Cove. Here, we
traded wheels for paddles. After a safety briefing, we packed our gear into the
watertight compartments of our kayaks and slid into the calm, cool waters of
the Johnstone Strait.
Our home for the next four days was a secluded beach campsite
accessible only by water. We fell into a blissful rhythm dictated by the tides,
spending our days exploring the coastline and our evenings sharing stories under
a brilliant canopy of stars.
The true magic, of course, was the wildlife. We had several
unforgettable encounters with Northern Resident Killer Whales. It always
started with a sound—the explosive ‘whoosh’ of a blowhole echoing across the
water—before a sleek black dorsal fin would slice through the surface. We were
also graced by the presence of humpback whales, gentle giants whose sheer size
was breathtaking. Curious harbor seals, playful sea otters, and majestic bald
eagles completed the picture. Those four days on the water, disconnected from
everything but the natural world, were the heart of our entire adventure.
Part IV: From Sea to Summit in the North Cascades
With the scent of salt spray still in our hair, we reluctantly began
the long journey south. After packing up in Telegraph Cove, we retraced our
route down Vancouver Island to Nanaimo, where we caught a BC Ferries vessel to
the mainland. We drove through the bustling city of Vancouver and crossed the
border back into the United States, the final stamp in our passports marking
the end of the Canadian chapter.
Our final destination was a completely different kind of wild: the
jagged, alpine heart of Washington’s North Cascades. We drove east, stopping in
the small town of Concrete before ascending into the mountains. The road
climbed steeply, winding through forests of fir and cedar. And then, we saw it.
We rounded a bend and the view opened up to reveal Diablo Lake. I
honestly gasped. Photos cannot prepare you for the color—a vivid, milky
turquoise so intense it seems almost unreal. We pulled over at the vista point,
utterly transfixed. The lake’s breathtaking color comes from finely ground rock
particles, or “glacial flour,” suspended in the water. Cradled by the steep,
forested slopes of Colonial and Pyramid peaks, it looked like a precious jewel
set in the heart of the mountains.
Seeing Diablo Lake felt like the perfect, dramatic final act. From
the emerald dreams of the rainforest to the whale-filled waters of Johnstone
Strait, and finally to this brilliant turquoise gem in the mountains, our
journey took us through the green, blue, and wild heart of the Pacific
Northwest.